If your sump pump isn’t working, check the power first: make sure the plug is seated firmly in the outlet, reset the GFCI, and look for a tripped breaker. Next, lift the float switch by hand — if the pump kicks on, the float was simply stuck. Then clear mud and gravel from the pit and intake screen. Here’s how to work through each check, and when to call a pro.
Confirm the Pump Has Power
The most common reason a sump pump stops working has nothing to do with the pump itself. Start with the obvious before assuming the worst.
- Check that the pump is plugged firmly into the outlet. Vibration over time can loosen the plug.
- Test the GFCI outlet and press the reset button. Many sump pumps share a circuit that can trip.
- Look at your electrical panel for a tripped breaker and reset it once.
- If many pumps share one outlet through a piggyback float plug, make sure both prongs are seated.
If the breaker trips again immediately or the outlet won’t hold a reset, stop and call a professional. That pattern points to an electrical fault or a failing motor, not a simple reset.
Inspect the Float Switch
The float switch is what tells the pump to turn on as the water rises. In an older pit, the float can get stuck against the basin wall, tangled in the cord, or jammed by debris.
- Lift the float by hand. The pump should kick on. If it does, the switch was simply hung up.
- Reposition the pump so the float has clear room to rise and fall.
- Look for gravel, silt, or stones in the pit that may be blocking movement.
A float that sticks repeatedly usually means a worn switch or an undersized basin. If you keep finding it stuck, it’s worth having the system evaluated as part of a full sump pump repair so you’re not relying on a daily eyeball check.
Clear the Pit, Inlet, and Check Valve
Sediment and debris build up fast in a sump basin, especially in homes on well and septic systems or older properties around Rensselaer, Columbia, and Greene counties.
- Scoop out mud, leaves, and gravel that may be clogging the intake screen at the base of the pump.
- Check the check valve on the discharge pipe. If it has failed, water can run back into the pit and the pump short-cycles without ever emptying.
- Make sure the pump sits flat on the bottom of the basin and hasn’t tipped.
If the motor hums but no water moves, the impeller may be jammed or the intake fully blocked. That’s a sign the pump needs to be pulled and serviced rather than nudged back into place.
Follow the Discharge Line Outside
A pump that runs perfectly can still flood a basement if the water has nowhere to go. The problem is often outside, not in the pit.
- Walk the discharge pipe to where it exits the foundation and confirm water is actually coming out.
- In our cold Capital Region winters, a frozen or ice-blocked discharge line is a frequent culprit.
- Clear leaves, mulch, or dirt from the outlet, and make sure the water drains away from the house, not back toward it.
Persistent backups, slow yard drainage, or water finding its way into the basement through a floor drain can point to a bigger issue with your drain and sewer system that a sump pump alone won’t fix.
Know When It’s the System, Not the Pump
If you’ve worked through power, the float, the pit, and the discharge line and the pump still won’t keep up, the failure is likely mechanical or tied to how the whole system is set up. Recurring flooding in homes on rural lots may also involve groundwater and drainage that ties into your well water and septic setup.
Empire State Plumbing has been family-run since 2006, serving Albany, Rensselaer, Saratoga, Schenectady, Columbia, and Greene counties, including plenty of homes with well, septic, and older drainage to account for. If your sump pump still isn’t working after these checks, call us at (518) 482-4205 or book online for same-day help, with $0-down financing available through Acorn Finance.