Plumbing Fixture Installation & Repair
for Kitchens and Baths

We quote flat-rate after confirming the fixture and connections — free estimate, no surprises.

We confirm the fixture fits the opening and the rough-in, shut the water off, remove the old fixture, set the new one, connect new supply lines and a working shutoff valve where the old ones are worn, connect the drain and trap, and then run the water and test every connection for leaks. Anything that does not fit, we tell you before we start.

Often we can. Faucet, toilet and sink calls get same-day service within business hours, Monday through Friday, 7:30am to 6pm, when the schedule allows, and dispatch confirms the soonest opening after you call or book online. Having the fixture model handy helps us bring the right part.

A drip almost always means a worn internal part: a rubber washer or seat in an older compression faucet, or a cartridge or ceramic disc in a newer one. Mineral scale from hard water speeds up the wear. Replacing the part usually stops the drip; if the faucet is corroded or parts are no longer made, replacing the whole faucet costs less over time.

Absolutely — bring your own faucet, sink, or toilet and we’ll confirm it fits before installing.

A toilet that moves is not sitting tight on the floor flange, and a leak at the base usually means the wax ring has failed. The fix is to pull the toilet, replace the wax ring, check the flange and bolts and reset it. If the flange is cracked or sits too low, that needs repair too. Never ignore a base leak, because it soaks the floor.

A toilet that keeps running usually has a flapper that no longer seals, a fill valve that does not shut off, or a float set too high. Lift the lid and look: if water trickles into the bowl, the flapper is the first suspect. If the water level keeps rising to the overflow tube, the fill valve is. Call us if replacing the part does not stop it.

Repair when one worn part is the problem and the fixture is otherwise sound. Replace when it is corroded, out of parts, leaking in more than one place or has already been rebuilt. We show you what failed and give a straight answer; we never push a swap when a part will do. Our repiping page covers the case where the pipes behind the wall are the issue.

Yes, and we recommend it when we replace a fixture. The small shutoff valves under a sink or behind a toilet get stiff or start to weep with age, and a valve that will not close leaves you with no way to stop the water in an emergency. Replacing the valve and the braided supply line while the fixture is out adds little to the job.

Yes. We back the labor on every kitchen and bathroom fixture install with a workmanship guarantee, and the fixture itself stays covered by its manufacturer’s warranty. If a connection leaks or a fitting works loose after we leave, we come back and make it right. See our guarantee.

Our hard water builds up mineral scale that clogs aerators, spots finishes, and stiffens faucet cartridges over time, so it pays to install fixtures with ceramic-disc valves and a finish that wipes clean. If you’re already seeing heavy buildup throughout the house, we can look at whole-home filtration or softening to protect the new fixtures and the rest of your plumbing.